The Sunset of her life....

My Newf Angel has entered her sunset years. She turned 13 years old on the 13th of December.
She whispers now when she barks.
She shakes her ears to tell me when she needs to go out.
After she gets outside she often forgets why she went there.
When she comes back in she sometimes remembers and she wants to go outside again.
Sometimes she gets her job done outside and other times she finishes it up inside.
But she is the love of my life and I will gladly put up with the inconveniences of it.
She sleeps a lot.
It is her favorite pasttime next to eating.
When I eat, she manages to hear me every time, and she comes and wais beside me so she can lick the crumbs when I am done.
I know the time will come sometime.
I hope it is a long time from now.


Dog lovers know what I mean.
The time when I have to hold her in my arms at the vet's office.
The time when I will have to say good bye.

She means the world to me.
for niine of her thirteen years she was my number one search dog.
She is probably the best search dog I will ever have.

Her daughter Jenna is a close second.
And soon her great granddaughter will go into training.

Her name will be "Phoenix"

Because she will "rise from the ashes" so to speak....and carry on the tradition.

But no one will ever replace my Angel.

I just hope that I can have another year with her...

Click on this link to order products in all breeds with images such as the Newf Sunset pictured, and many others!

AUSTRALIAN CATTLE DOGS

FIND THIS AND OTHER DESIGNS for the dog lovers in your life at the link (just click on the title)

The Australian Cattledog actually was developed from the Australian Wild dog, or Dingo. It is an extremely effective and efficient herding dog, using its body stance and eye contact and nipping at the heels to control large herds of cattle. The Australians developed this breed to help to drive herds of cattle through the long arduous treks to market. The breed is small and hardy and extremely tough, and is noted for it’s endurance over long distances.

The Australian cattle dog is also known as the “Australian Queensland heeler” or the “blue heeler” or simply a “heeler” because of the tendency to nip at the heels of the cattle. Cattledogs are well suited to the hard work of a drover, being strong, compact, and quick on its feet, a trait which survived from the original Dingo, and this trait protects the dogs from injury in the milling herds of cattle. It is a silent breed when doing its work, controlling catle with a minimum of effort and precise body lanquage rather than vocalizing.

The cattledog does not necessarily make a good “household pet”. Simply put, this is a dog that needs a job. Farm life suits it best, and preferably farm life which involves herding. Dogs without a “herd” will often transfer their “herding” tendency to the children. Cattledogs also share a trait most common with other herding breeds, they do give chase to moving objects. Consequently if they are not trained well or are not enclosed, they often become the victims of automobiles. However, the “heeler” , when allowed to have an active and productive life, can settle in to family life very well, and is a loving and gentle breed. Cattledog enthusiasts who do not have the luxury of cattle to herd have used this breed in the sports of flyball and agility with great success. Furthermore, these sports give the dog a sense of purpose and are fun for both the owner and the dog.



This breed, by the way, holds the canine longevity record....29 years.

submitted by Kathy Reed

check out my Dog Blog for the latest in Dog information of all kinds
THE DOG HAIRNET for desperate dog owners when the dog is shedding... use this when you “blow out” your dog after his bath
check out Isark9 for information on search dogs
check out my DogGone Digs for up to date articles on general doggy stuff
and for information on the training of dogs in general check out for up to date downloadable books

A NEW PRODUCT FOR DOG GROOMING!

this is the best thing to come on the market since the rake....remeember how you used to have to RAKE up the hair off the lawn when you were done "blowing out" the dog (This product is strictly for those who DO use a blow dryer and blow out the hair on the dog..) Can be used on WET dogs or DRY dogs! and Guess what? No hair on your on clothes when you get done!

If you have ever made an emergency trip to the hospital to have dog hair removed from your eyes you will know what I am talking about. Take a look at it, you won't regret it!

THE DOG HAIRNET for desperate dog owners when the dog is shedding... use this when you “blow out” your dog after his bath

Beginning training for a Search dog

It is best to know the parentage of the puppy since temperament is definitely inherited. good temperament is the basis for a good search dog! If you are fortunate you will be able to meet both parents but meeting the stud dog or sire is not always possible. The parents should be calm, affectionate with people, and active. If you have the good fortune to be able to pick your puppy out of a litter, you will want to look for one that shows those characteristics. For a search dog you will also want a puppy that has a high “play” drive...wants to investigate everything, shows courage and outgoing attitude, and is physically active (doesn't’ appear to be too “laid back” and “lazy”)

The importance of socializing in a Search dog for civilian work cannot be emphasized enough. I always advise people to start with a young puppy, preferably NOT from a rescue or shelter since you do not know what their previous experiences are.


The puppy should be warm and welcoming to all humans and non dog aggressive. Exposure to other animals, such as cats, chickens, and domesticated farm animals will help to adjust the dog to future encounters while on a search without a problem. Exposure to lots of people...people wearing funny outfits, people who laugh loudly, people who act silly or different...this is an important part of your puppy’s socialization. Deliberately “setting up” situations with friends and relatives in wheelchairs, carrying bags, wearing floppy hats...and so on is not only entertaining but exposes your dog to unusual or different encounters in a “controlled” situation so that he will not be aggressive or timid later on when he does encounter such things.


Take your puppy with you everywhere. Riding in vehicles so that it will not become car sick is VERY necesary..going to flea markets, parades, festivals and community events such as softball games and so on will also allow the puppy to be comfortable in noisy situations such as crowds. Such simple noises as flags fluttering, semis going by, bicycles whizzing along, roller skates and skateboards..all these things are important to expose your puppy to.


What to do when your puppy acts timid:


The biggest mistake you can make is to reward your puppy for acting afraid or timid! Do not always be picking the dog up and/or petting it when it appears to be afraid. It is better to let the dog investigate new or strange situations or people on its own, if you praise or pet the dog or reward the dog for being “afraid” or timid then it is going to repeat this behavior. Allowing him to “come to terms” with unusual situations will get him over his fear and he will not be relying on you for support.

Of course obedience and control must also be developed. Taking your dog to one obedience class such as a puppy kindergarten class is a good beginning, and should be followed through with an occasional class all his life, as a refresher course for you and for him! Obedience classes do more than just “train” your dog to be under your control. They provide a lot of the above elements of socialization!

To read about the actual "first steps" in training, stay tuned to this blog! I will write more information in the next few weeks about the actual "first steps" of training a Searchdog puppy.

As you begin to start this training, keep in mind that short sessions, several different times a day, are better than long boring training sessions which will not only tire your puppy out, but burn you out as well. Training should be fun.

The final focus that you will be working towards with your future search dog is that the puppy should have an absolute need to find humans and to WANT to please you. Keep this in mind all the way through your puppy's training. Searching for the dog is not “WORK”. IT SHOULD BE THE THING HE WANTS TO DO more than anything else. This means that no matter what, being WITH PEOPLE should be where he wants to be, and FINDING PEOPLE should be the thing that he wants to do more than anything else in the world! Always keep this final goal in mind as you are socializing your new “future search dog” and you will be on your way!

By Kathy Reed, trainer for ISAR Iowa Search and Rescue




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for everything dog lovers love to have

living with a JACK RUSSELL

Several years ago my husband decided the one thing his life lacked was a canine companion, and so he proceeded to locate and purchase the single most incompatible pet for a family with children and upholstered furniture. We became a Jack Russell Terrier family, and as it turns out the only animal more irritable, bossy and down right ill-tempered on the face of the earth would probably have to be a rattlesnake when it's molting......
read entire article at
Dogdaze Designs

LET THE DOG IN THIS WINTER!!

WINTER AND HOLIDAY SAFETY TIPS FOR YOUR PET

Older dogs and puppies both have special needs, especially during stressful times when there is more activity in the family, such as the Holiday season. Provide a comfortable resting place for BOTH of these age groups. If you have not kept a crate in your home before for your pet please consider it during the Holiday season. Older dogs need to rest and often prefer to be away from the noise and confusion and in a “safe place”, especially since they are not always clear in their eyesight or hearing. Younger dogs tend to investigate everything and need to be protected from hazards such as tasting the Christmas ornaments or eating the turkey.

Keep in mind that puppies need 14 hours of sleep a day. Do not allow family members to keep the young puppy too active as they must have their sleep in order to grow and develop. Watch out for outdoor hazards such as icy surfaces and do not allow your dogs, if you have a multi dog family, to romp and play on the ice as you might end up with an unexpected vet bill due to a ligament tear! Often times wood chips sprinkled on the ice help to make a better surface for your dog to walk on. The typical treatments involving salt are NOT SAFE for your dog’s feet and should not be used in your “dog yard”.

If your dog is outdoors a lot, he/she needs a doghouse or enclosure which is just slightly bigger than the dog, an enclosure which will allow the dog to curl up and have only a small amount of space left over, as this type of enclosure will provide more heat than a large roomy dog house (even if it is an insulated dog house. Dogs need access to FRESH water in the winter also, frozen water is not effective in providing enough liquid for him! If you don't have a heated water element and your dog is outside full time it is absolutely essential that you provide a supply of fresh water twice a day.

Outdoor dogs also need a DAILY DOSE of love and attention. It is easy in the summer to take your outdoor dog walking and to play fetch with him out in the yard. It requires more sacrifice on your part to go out in the cold and provide some quality time with your pet. But please do not abandon your dog just because it is cold. Ask yourself why did you get the dog in the first place? Be good to your dog and give him the attention and affection that he craves, and hopefully you will BRING THE DOG INSIDE to be a part of your family this season if you have not done so yet.


When it comes to gift giving, dont forget your dog also!! dog t-shirts are available in all designs at
Dogdaze Designs

GERMAN SHEPHERD PUPPIES TO SELECTED HOMES ONLY AT
ROYALAIR SHEPHERDS

check out the DOWNLOADABLE BOOKS ON DOG TRAINING AT
Dogdaze Designs

Dog-Sitter or Baby-Sitter?

Finding the right “sitter” for your dogs

Having dogs is a lot like having kids. Sometimes the need arises to have a “baby sitter.” If you live alone and do not have the luxury of a spouse or one of your human kids close by, or even a neighbor that you know well enough or trust to have them deal with these emergencies...then you need to start making a set of plans if your dogs have to be left for a length of time without you... NOW. Things can come up suddenly in this day and age.

Of course, there are places scattered all over this country that specialize in a form of dog sitting known as “boarding kennels” and I will touch on these institutional settings another time. Dog kennels are not always available in an unplanned emergency situation.

What I want to focus on in this article are the possible instances when things come up that may require you to have an unexpectedly prolonged absence. Perhaps you are normally gone for only 8 hours a day and you end up in an “on the road” emergency which is going to drag into 12 hours or more. Perhaps you suddenly get sick and end up going to a hospital in the middle of the night. In these cases It is wise to have some contingency plans.

Do you live in a large city or an isolated country setting? This will make a difference in your plans. Large cities have a much larger population base to choose from and travel to your home may not be as difficult. On the other hand, an isolated country setting can provide just as ideal arrangements for you if you take the time to really look into your possibilities.

One of the best places to find a dog sitter who can be “on call” for emergencies is to check with your local high school guidance counselor. She or he can steer you in the direction of responsible young adults who may have an interest in animals and be willing and hard working kids to boot. High schoolers can get busy however, and their time may be devoted to other things that will impinge on their ability to suddenly run to your home to “do dogs”.

High schools that run Farm or agriculture programs might be able to provide you with a couple of names of farm kids who would be willing to chore for you and are already living near you if you are in a rural area.

Another place to find a possible dog emergency care taker is a local retired citizens center. Folks who are not living in “assisted living arrangements” and are still physically active often have a lot of time on their hands and usually enough life long experience to be able to adequately jump into a situation and care for your dogs in an emergency. Keep in mind that a frail physical being can NOT care for and walk an unruly animal, even if it is a LITTLE dog, so you do need to consider the physical strength of the person you are looking for.

Once you have located one or two persons who might fill the bill for you, you need to set up an interview situation. One of the most important things to consider is whether or not your dog is going to be comfortable with the person you have chosen. Have the person come to your home for the interview and meet your animals. It is imperative that your dog (s) or cat(s) like the person who may have to care for them in an emergency! Check out background checks by asking for personal and church or community references. Both of these things are absolutely necessary. Then be sure to inquire what the person you are interviewing will expect to receive as wages. If you live on a fixed income or have very little to spare you might want to consider a barter arrangement, you may have skills that you can trade for sitting services.

Once you have found someone you and your animals feel is suitable, then it is necessary that you go through the entire process of feeding and doing the chores with that person. Do this once, then the next time have them come over and do everything while YOU are watching. Before they come, that second time, go through all the necessary arrangements, such as written instructions posted in a prominent location, storage of ood, dishes, water, and so on in an accessible area, and clear and concise posted instructions for everything! and DON’T forget to include emergency contact numbers including the vet and poison center.

Now go back to the beginning of this article...remember that I said “baby - sitting”?? Think back to your days of parenting and go through the dog sitting steps with the person you have selected much as you would if you were again hiring a baby-sitter! Once you have adequately prepared for the possibility of sudden absence ot time away from your pets by hiring a sitter, you will be able to face every day from the perspective of the boy scouts and “be prepared!”

check out Dogaze Designs for your favorite breed on your favorite products!

check out Isark9 for information on search dogs

check out my DogGone Digs for up to date articles on general doggy stuff

this article written by Kath Reed, owner/manager of Dogdaze Designs

A dog form of Avian flu??

"The course of the dog diseaseappears to be about four weeks. There are two forms, milder and very extreme. Two weeks into the viral disease the dog looks like he is getting over the cough and then bacterial infections become an acute problem" ...Click on the headline to read the rest of this article.

Dog Training Made EASY

Here is just one example of some of the GOOD INFORMATION found on the website:
"To keep your dog from charging the front door each time it opens, try putting up a door or gate that he can't see through or hop over. Have him wait until people enter and come up the stairs. Then give him a treat for waiting." (from an article by Amy Howells)

To add to this :

This "gate system" can also be used to teach the dog not to jump up. What I do is have the dog wait on one side of the gate. The minute he jumps and puts his feet on the gate I loudly use the "no" term:"unh unh!!" in a disapproving tone. The second the dog puts his feet back on the floor, he gets a treat. It is no time at all to teach him that jumpiing is a "no no"

Thje information on dog training and lots of good stuff on dogs can be found on the website "Dog Information" by clicking on the HEADLINE.

thanks for visiting the Dog blog!

HURRICANE KATRINA: A lesson in Emergency preparedness...

A MUST READ ARTICLE FOR DOG OWNERS. CLICK ON THE TITLE TO READ THIS ARTICLE. IT IS ABSOLUTELY THE ONE THING YOU MUST DO TODAY!(written by Kimberly Zlatin .. a freelance copywriter and entrepreneur. She owns and runs www.barkslope.com, an online dog boutique)

Donate to Katrina!

Reflections on Katrina

So here I sit,
The house is quiet,
My beloved dogs lie at my feet...
I have a full stomach.

My clothes are piled on the antique bed...
My books are piled around my computer,
My dishes are waiting to be washed..
My life is all of a piece, whole and good.


Life for me is sweet and full.
I drink from a full cup.

And yet in the next room
the television shows those awful sights
of pain and loss and total despair..

And I swear to myself that never again
will I go through a day and take this life
for granted.

***all profits from the purchases of any of the SEARCH AND RESCUE CANINE designs on Dogdaze will be donated to the Red Cross for the victims of Hurricane Katrina for an indefinite period of time, as noted on the front page of

DogDaze Designs

My Dog Keeps Me Sane!

Check out the newest dog poem : Staying Sane in an Insane world

MY DOG IS MY FRIEND, HE DOES NOT BOTHER ME WITH DEMANDS...
HE ASKS NOTHING EXCEPT AN OCCASIONAL PAT ON HIS HEAD...
HE IS ALWAYS THERE REGARDLESS OF HOW FICKLE MY HUMAN FRIENDS ARE
HE IS NOT JEALOUS
HE IS NOT DISHONEST
HE IS ALWAYS TRUSTWORTHY
HE WILL USUALLY DO WHAT I TELL HIM
HE DOES NOT NAG ME NOR INTERFERE WITH MY DAILY LIFE....


EVEN IF HE IS NOT TRAINED TO DO OTHER THINGS THERE
ARE CERTAIN THINGS HE FEELS IT HIS DUTY TO DO REGARDLESS.....

HE MAKES CERTAIN MY LIFE IS ORGANIZED;
HE NEVER FORGETS WHAT TIME IT IS
WHEN IT IS DINNER TIME HE LETS ME KNOW
WHEN IT IS POTTY TIME HE WILL ALSO TELL ME (USUALLY)
WHEN THERE ARE STRANGERS AT THE DOOR HE WILL LET ME KNOW TOO!
HE ALSO HAS TO WARN AWAY STRANGE ANIMALS FROM THE YARD
AND BARK AT THE UPS GUY
AND WAG AT THE NEIGHBOR KIDS
AND MAKE SURE THE BONES HE BURIED LAST YEAR ARE STILL IN THEIR PROPER PLACE....
HE BRINGS ME HIS STICK SO I CAN THROW IT FOR HIM..
HE CARRIES HIS LEASH FOR ME WHEN I AM TOO TIRED TO HOLD IT AND EVEN WHEN I AM NOT......
HE CLEANS OFF MY DISHES FOR ME IF I SET THEM DOWN FOR HIM .....
(IF HE COULD HE WOULD PUT THEM IN THE CUPBOARD TOO!)
HE TIDIES UP THE HOUSE FOR ME
AND PUTS THINGS AWAY WHERE HE THINKS THEY SHOULD GO
HE HELPS TO HOLD ME UP WHEN I AM STANDING
BY LEANING ON ME
HE CLEANS MY FACE WHEN IT IS DIRTY
AND OTHER PARTS OF MY BODY TOO!!

MOST OF ALL.....
HE HELPS ME TO STAY SANE IN AN INSANE WORLD.


.....By Kathy Reed Sept 2005

EMERGENCY PLANS FOR YOUR PETS

As is always the case, for yourself and your pets, it is important to remember to keep an emergency situation as stress free as possible....THIS EXCELLENT ARTICLE reminds you of the importance of planning ahead so as to be prepared for emergency situations or even just for general traveling advice with your pet...

Included here is the example of what to pack in your first aid kit in the vehicle for your pets:


vet wraps, one roll,
ascriptin (coated aspirin), benadryl (for bee stings or bites or allergies), antibiotic ointment,
scissors (for cutting out mats, etc.)
grooming equipment such as a comb or a brush,
two small towels or washcloths,
an ice pack ,
a thermometer (normal temp is 102 degrees, taken rectally)
a muzzle (if a dog is in extreme pain it may bite without warning)
for large dogs, a sling
tweezers

There is more advice in the article. I highly recommend you visit the page!

BASICS OF CLICKER TRAINING

THIS IS ONE OF THE BEST!! a down to earth beginning guide to starting clicker training! And more to come in the weeks ahead! Quoting diretly from the first paragraph:
"the whole key to clicker training is to get the dog to a stage in his training where you can quickly reinforce a behavior that he does in order to tell him that he is "doing something right". The clicker is a substitute for "good dog" and has more meaning because it is very specific to the dog. for example there are dozens of times every day and many situations where you use the words "good dog" (or at least there should be) but when you use a clicker you are working towards the end result of putting the dog into a "learning mode" and in the end he will understand, when you are "clicking" that he has performed a behavior which was correct and he will be rewarded."

Click on the title to read all of this article!

PUPPY CHEWING AND HOW TO STOP IT

Chewing, and generally destroying stuff is as normal for dogs as tail-wagging and sniffing ... If you have a dog, expect chewing. Provide him with his own toys and teach him to chew them and to play with them or he will destructively chew anything available, such as your furniture, carpet, clothing or shoes. If you leave stuff around that he CAN chew, expect that he will. Puppy proof your house the same as if you had a two year old toddller....

Dont believe the old wives tale that dogs destroy your house because they are angry, jealous or spiteful. They do it because they are dogs. They may be lonely, bored, frustrated or anxious, but they are not spiteful. If something is there for them to chew,, and they are in the mood, they will chew. . Active dogs can become restless when left alone for long periods. If for example you always come home at a certain time and you are late, your dog may become anxious. Your dog does not punish you for being late by chewing. The dogs' chewing just helps to relieve stress and release energy. If you come home and find that your dog has destroyed something, do not punish the dog. Be matter of fact and clean up the mess. He is not going to understand punishement AFTER the fact, no matter what you might think...dogs live in the moment.

Preventing Chewing problems before they start
Until your dog can be trusted not to destroy your home and yard, do not give him free, unsupervised run of your house. Give him a room of his own or a crate...where he can enjoy himself and relax when you are not home or are unable to supervise him. Give him a rawhide chew in the crate. Stuff a kong toy with peanut butter. give him rope toys, stufed toys, safe toys made for dogs. When he tries to pick up something else, remove it from his mouth and offer him one of his toys. some examples of cheap toys that dogs love: empty toilet tissue cardboard rolls or paper towel rolls .....empty boxes (not food boxes such as cereal boxes) .....paper bags........woven rope toys.....It helps to keep all of his toys in his "toy box" (usully a nice big flat sort of basket works very well......)
Teach your dog to play with those toys. play fetch.... praise the dog when you see that is has a toy..hide a toy and have him go find it ..put the toy in the dogs mouth when it is attempting to chew on your clothes or your hands... it works very well to put a toy in the dogs mouth when you first return home, it relieves the "anxiety" of the greeting and gives the dog something to "mouth" rather than you....An added benefit is that this will ALSO stop jumping up on people and overly excited greetings at the door when people (or you) arrive home. I have a dog that deliberately goes and looks for s toy to pick up and carry when people come to the door !

Chewing Deterrents
If you catch your dog in the act of chewing something it should not chew there are things you can try. of course the first thing is to correct verbally. Be loudly disapproving. saying NO forcefully never hurt a thing! If a dog perssts in chewing the leg of your antique table.....(which you CANT pick up and put away!!) then try tabasco sauce, red pepper, or some of the commerical products made for a dog to prevent chewing.

Common Sense and Chewing
By far the simplest way to keep your dog from chewing on forbidden items is to prevent access to them. Put your shoes in the closet and shut the door. Place the trash outside. Keep doors closed; keep valuables out of reach. Praise and reward your dog profusely for chewing her own toys.

BEING A RESPONSIBLE DOG OWNER: 12 GOLDEN RULES

Check out these easy to follow and most important 12 rules for responsibledog ownership! Developed by mary Ann Spencer of Thunderpaws Newfoundlands,and suitable for all breeds of dogs (and owners!!)

Using Genetics for breeding better dogs

"Great & consistent bloodlines have been built on good, consistent dogs bred by knowledgeable breeders. Purebred domestic species are based on concentrating family traits, so like dogs must somehow be bred together. Knowledge is the key here; knowing in depth what you are breeding. Buyers shouldn't reward those who breed casually, indifferently, or for superficial traits. And please don't condemn breeders who have the courage to acknowledge the faults in their dogs & their bloodlines (or who try to elicit information & public discussion of the same). All bloodlines carry along faults, not just the ones where the faults are seen & reported. Again, the situation now is too often one where people breed without knowledge, producing affecters and carriers & just not knowing it, as they don't keep adequate records, do enough homework, etc. Just ask yourself how this can be preferable to accumulating information than can only benefit the breed? Who exactly benefits from all this ignorance? Surely not the dogs, the potential breeding partners left in ignorance, or the potential puppy buyers. For the breeds to benefit from the control of genetic disease we need to do what most Code of Ethics demand: keep up with news in genetics & have an in-depth knowledge of the dogs we are using. This means understanding the basics of inheritance & knowing how to apply them for good results in your breeding practices. This means marking pedigrees with more than color and titles. This means accepting that most diseases we now struggle with have a genetic component & treating such situations conservatively AND rationally. We need to educate ourselves, to stop reacting violently to the notion of genetic disease & start treating it with a more sophisticated and realistic view. We need to not just learn as we go, but read before we breed, & bone up on the basics before we start creating lives."
The above quote is only a small portion of the article.You can read the rest of it be visiting The Royalair german shepherd pages at http://www.royalair.org/purebreed_vs_mixedbreed.html
Learn why and what a good breeder strives for....An excellent and well written in-depth article of the problems breeders face today and why it is important to strive for perfection yet realize also that perfection is very seldom achieved when it come to breeding dogs....(This message was written & prepared by JP Yousha for educational purposes & may be reproduced to further that end. All copyrights remain with the author:)

FINDING AND ENTERING A DOG SHOW

"Almost all BREED CLUBS hold "Specialty shows" on a regular basis, either fun matches or regular shows sponsored by the AKC or the UKC. A BREED CLUB is a regional or national club which is specific to a certain breed. To find information about your Breed clubs and when they hold their shows, check out, again, the pages at AKC.org or even conduct a general search on the web...You might be surprised to find how many states have Specialty clubs with your breed. Specialty shows are especially enjoyable to the dog fancier since they have ONLY the Specialty breed entered at the Specialty show...." This is only a small portion of an extensive article written by a long time breeder and dog show enthusiast. It describes in great detail how to go about finding dog shows to enter. Not only that, it leads you to a wonderful link to purchase tee shirts and articles of clothing with wonderful images such as the one shown above (especially at this time of year!!)

AVOIDIING HIP DYSPLASIA IN DOGS

KSU VETS: CANINE HIP PROBLEMS CAN BE AVOIDED

MANHATTAN -- Many pet owners may be setting their dogs up for hip problems by feeding them too much, said James Hoskinson, associate professor at Kansas State University's College of Veterinary Medicine and board certified radiologist. He said canine hip problems are not uncommon and can often be avoided.

The two most common types of hip problems in dogs are hip dysplasia, which is caused by a combination of genetic and biological factors, and avascular necrosis of the femoral head, which is caused by purely genetic factors.

Hip dysplasia most often occurs in middle to large breed dogs, such as German shepherds, great Danes, St. Bernards and Labrador retrievers. It occurs when the head of the femur and the socket of the hip fail to develop properly, which can lead to degenerative hip disease and symptoms of arthritis. Hip dysplasia can be treated by either managing it medically, such as through prescribing aspirin or other anti-inflammatories, or by performing surgery. The surgery can range from making minor changes in the shape of the femur or by a hip replacement.

Avascular necrosis of the femoral head most often occurs in smaller or toy breeds of dogs, such as poodles, Pomeranians and Pekingese. When this occurs, the dogs lose blood supply to the head of the femur, which can lead to degenerative hip disease as well. Treatment often involves having the head of the dog's femur removed. Because of the dog's small size, most often it can still walk normally after surgery.

The severity of the problem may also influence the decision of what treatment to use. A mild case will usually be treated with medication and the more severe cases will usually be treated using surgery.

One of the most important factors in determining whether a dog will develop hip problems later in life has to do with nutritional factors. According to Hoskinson, keeping a dog on the proper diet and minimizing feeding can reduce the risk of developing hip problems.

James Roush, associate professor and section head of small animal surgery at K-State, said that a dog should not be obese, should have a visible waist, and its ribs should be felt but not seen. Owners should watch the caloric intake of their dog and make sure it is receiving the proper percentage of calcium in its diet. He says that most puppy foods contain 0.5 to 1.5 percent calcium, and that this is the ideal amount. Dog foods containing more than 3 percent calcium are more likely to lead to hip dysplasia or other skeletal problems. Roush says that the best way to insure that a dog is receiving the correct nutrition and quantity of food is to consult a veterinarian.........

Roush says that when buying a dog, the most important point to look at to increase your chances of having a dog free of hip problems is the parentage. If both parents are free of hip dysplasia, there is a better chance of their offspring not having hip problems.

If you see your dog limping after exercise; if it has a waddling gait (bunny hop); is having pain when getting up or down; is reluctant to move; or is protecting one side or is lame, contact your veterinarian.

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10 reasons NOT TO BREED your dog

A.K.A. "10 reasons to SPAY or NEUTER" is an excellent and informative article for those who jump into breeding without thinking it out first....click on the link in the title to read the full article....Folks who are truly concerned about breeding CORRECTLY will not sell their pups except on a spay or neuter contract. A buyer should question the responisiblities of a breeder who does not involve himself in "breed rescue". Are they williing to take care of the pups they have produced as a lifelong committment?? You can find items with the logo (pictured) on tee shirts, coffee mugs, and the like by visiting Dogdaze Designs (visit http://www.kaylar.com/dogdaze)

What is a Responsible Breeder?

If you are searching for a puppy to add to your home check out this article FIRST!

The Bug Days are here

really, if I see another tick on me I will scream but at least I will keep my dogs safe. smelly, but safe, and chemical free.....

UK FAVORITE BREEDS

The UK's Favourite Pedigree Pooches


A Norfolk Terrier may have been crowned ‘best in show’ by the judges at Crufts 2005, but according to a census of over 118,000 dog owners in the UK, Staffordshire Bull Terriers are the nations’ favourite ‘pedigree pooch........

Making a move with your dog

Making a move with pets

"Having just completed a move to another state and transporting 6 newfoundland dogs.....I have discovered some absolute necessities. some I had done right, others I found out too late!......"

Medicinal needs of your pets, traveling necesities, access to food and water, combatting the stress of a move are a few of the things discussed........

Newf grooming tips

Grooming a long coated breed such as the newfoundland takes some time. Weekly grooming is best and if you allow your dog to run free in the woods very often you must take into account that you will need to groom much more often! A few tips on basic coat care are available in this link and also even some pictures of how to brush and what tools you will need.....

Newfoundland Dog Weight Chart

"The average male adult Newfoundland weighs in the neighborhood of 130 to 150 pounds, the average female adult will weigh 110 to 130 pounds...." This excellent article tells much more than just the weight of the verage Newfoundland from birth to fully grown but also discusses the general characteristics of the breed.....

Memories are made of this..........

Learn about the origin of the "Rainbow Bridge" legend and check this page out often for updates of memorial poems and tributes.

Crate Training is really House Training......

The problem of housebreaking a pupy is easily solved with the use of a Crate. the author of this article emphasizes the importance of the dog beginning to think of the crate as his "bed area". New puppy owners should read this!

the Pitbull Breed has been mis-represented.....

An article which lays out the facts for Pitbull owners...It is time to educate the public and present the GOOD qualities of the breed...It is bad owners who tarnish the reputation of this wonderful breed and this article emphasizes the importance of changing the image. Helpful links are included. A must-read for the Pitbull owner!

The Irresistable PUG

This article tells about the Pug Breed and what you should look for in a Pug puppy. It also describes interesting details about the origin of the breed.

Crate training a puppy........

The article describes why a "crate" is NOT a "cage" but becomes an effective training aid for house training your puppy and in the end a "bed area" and a safe place for your dog.

Selection of a family dog.......

The article details some reasons for selecting large dogs versus small dogs...some realy good descriptions of the different "groups" of dogs are included. And informative article which is a must if you are looking to purchase a pet for your family.

The Bullmastiff....not an easy puppy....

The bullmastiff is a large and powerful breed and one needs to prepare for the great size it will attain while it is still a puppy....

It is no fun to be knocked down and dragged around by a fun loving giant that doesn't know that its teeth HURT or that when it leaps joyfully into your face it can knock out your teeth!

Bullmastiff puppies are very trainable and quick to learn...heed the article well and train the puppy early. This article will tell you how to get the most fun and the best behavin' puppy around...